
A sub-culture that has cultivated Los Angeles almost since the founding of the city is gang culture, and its presence has been identified through its style of clothing by communities and law enforcers alike.
In this blog post I’d like to discuss fashion as criminal behavior and compare the
Zoot Suit boys from 1943 with contemporary rebellious youth in the city. The element of fashion in the gang sub-culture is an integral part of Los Angeles life because this form of expression has created tension in the past and the present.
To examine the current situation on the streets, it is important to first understand the conflicts with fashion in the history of Los Angeles. Identifying an individual and attributing their appearance to a
street organization was what began a fiery of riots during World War II. Men dressed in baggy pants and long over-sized coats called “Zoot Suits” were identified as enemies to the community. This new style was a cultural hybrid for both Mexican-Americans and African Americans living in the city. “At a time when government officials, the media, and general public encouraged the American populace to be a cohesive and homogenized unit of wartime production, Zoot Suiter’s notion of style laid claim to a cultural citizenship the challenged wartime notions of race, gender, and nation as fundamentally white” (Alvarez 2001). This new style was such a threat to the American public that men dressed in U.S. uniform had to chase and beat these fashion-forward men. The events that were covered by the press as
Zoot Suit Wars painted a picture of Anglo-Americans versus the esthetically unified minority. In The
Power of the Zoot: Race, Community, and the Resistance in American Youth Culture, 1940-1945, Alvarez identifies the government as a suppressor of individualism and unity among an empowered group of young Mexican-American men.
In current times the style of crime has been created by a new designer. Many of the images that gang members uphold are seen on television through music videos and television shows. Those affiliated in organized crime are expected to be dressed in expensive European suits as depicted in cult-movies like The Godfather and Scareface. Whereas street organizations take on a less put-together look and are represented by Hip Hop superstars like Nate Dogg and Ice Cube. Through my observations I have found that one should not underestimate Los Angeles’ influence in the apparel industry because the youth are quick to mimic the look of these gangster rappers. In memoirs written by the co-founder of the notorious Los Angeles gang “Crips”,
Tookie Williams writes, “I dressed to match the thug persona I had sculpted to mirror the territory” (Williams 2004). He expressed how his amplified confidence and thuggish style gave the youth in the area something to be afraid of.
In Blue Rage, Black Redemption: A Memoir, Williams describes many characters to have the appearance of the contemporary version of the zoot suiter. Instead of loosely fitting suits, the style today is to wear over-sized jeans with a belt, colored converse shoes, large t-shirts and sports logos on hats and jackets. However this style is not as exclusive as the Zoot Suit, many young men who are not gang affiliated wear these clothes as a form of their own expression.
Aside from unifying their members by creating a family on the streets, the style of clothing gang members use have colors, emblems, and discrete symbols that are characteristics which define their set. In a manual used to help law enforcers identify gang members, the writer states that “It is common for street gangs to wear clothing which bears names, insignias and/or color schemes and patterns of college, professional, and other sports teams” (Gang Prevention 1997). With this type of literature, law enforcers can police those on the streets and more interestingly in any public arena including schools and nightclubs. Here lie the similarities between fashions of contemporary street organizations and those of the famed “Zoot Suiters.” Ironically, it would not be difficult to find gang members at school dances or Quinceaneras dressed in Zoot Suits to give an illusion of formal Mafioso attire.
The fact that law enforcers have gone to these lengths (publishing manuals) to try to identify gang clothes underscores the importance given to what an individual wears in public. Once a subtle detail, now wearing a color can alert a police officer and create a probable cause for questioning.